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Revolution graffiti and cars

Graffiti

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Cars

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Bici-taxi: only intended for locals. They can get fined if they take foreigners but they are not too strict about it. The French girl managed to get her bici-taxi driver fined........this girl was bad news

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Cuba cabs:

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Car museum

You need to pay to get it, and the camera ticket is more expensive than getting in. I did not go in since Havana was one big car museum.

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Posted by seifaboualy 06.09.2011 20:25 Archived in Cuba Comments (0)

Last few days in Havana

The last few days in Havana were more of the same, some exploring, reading (about the revolution and its main figures), and checking out places that seemed interesting. This is more or less a summary of the highlights

For some odd reason, Margarita started calling me "Commanda" and that nickname lasted until my last day at her casa. I hadn't been shaving (until now) and had a little beard growing (trying to look like "Los Barbudos" - the bearded fighters that stayed in the Sierra Maestra mountains). Maybe my looks, the books and cigars in my room made her call me that........It was funny actually, it seemed as if we were becoming friends.

Here is a picture of me trying to look like the revolutionaries. (I only saw this Fidel photo when I was writing the blog, way after I took mine)

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Ambos Mundos:

I spent a day at the Ambos Mundos hotel located on Obispo street, one of the main streets in Havana and where all the shops are. The hotel is really nice and they have a laid back café; it is one of the few places where you can sit and feel a nice breeze from time to time (not sure why though since it is located on a busy street with buildings all around, bas howa 3ala nasya bardo…..yemkin nasya ba7ari mesh 3aref).

Hemmingway spent sometime in the hotel writing one of his books, his room is open for visits. I honesty did not bother myself with seeing the room. I was just enjoying their café/bar sipping mojitos, enjoying a cigar and reading my book in an attempt to finish it before leaving Cuba. I wanted to ship a few things back to Egypt and wanted to send the book along. I was preparing my second shipment back home, first one was in Argentina. I had over packed in terms of clothes and therefore needed to send some stuff back in order to enjoy the rest of my trip (I also sent some souvenirs that I had bought along the way).

The security guy working at the hotel thought I was a millionaire when I was talking to him about my trip in South America. I seemed like a rich kid sitting in the lobby of a nice hotel in the old part of Havana enjoying a cigar and cocktails. The thing is since everything is owned and controlled by the government all drinks cost the same in Havana. A cocktail is 2.5-3 CUC depending on where you are, so drinking in the Ambos Mundos costs the same as in any small café or bar in Havana Vieja or Centro........so why not enjoy a nice relaxed place at the same cost.

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Dos Hermanos

Dos Hermanos was one of the places Hemmingway used to visit, he basically visited every place in town so it’s not something so rare or special, but they like to use it for Marketing. Because Dos Hermanos is a bit out of the way (still in Habana Vieja, next to the rum museum) it is not as busy as the Floridita (or as expensive). The first half of the Cuban blog was written here, it was pouring that day and I stayed there (like 7 hours - the rain did not last that long though) until the rain had stopped. I passed my time there drinking beer and working on the blog/diary (bil cigar tab3an).

Dos Hermanos is a really nice place, very nice atmosphere with a sea breeze, it is very close to the sea and ship terminal.

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Teatro Nacional de Cuba:

In Vedado there is another teatro, with a few night spots in and around it. I was at the Delirio Habanero Piano-bar (a club like place inside the Teatro), they usually have live shows at night, it was not a weekend night but I decided to go, it was the night before my trip to Vinales.

There is also another club right next to it (Cafe Cantante). The place only opened at 11 PM, so I had to wait outside until they would let us in. The club is on a top floor overlooking the Plaza de la revolucion which means you get great views of the plaza.

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Everyone getting inside had some kind of paper slip that the security guy checked against their IDs. I later asked what this was, it was a receipt showing that they had already paid. They paid in advance (not sure where/why or how the system works) and once they got in they sat at their reserved tables and would get served with a bottle and some drinks (based on observation).

Since I did not have this paper, I had to pay (3 CUC if I’m not wrong) to get in but the guy just let me in and said I can order anything with these 3 CUC. I went in and got myself a table (with cafeteria like plastic seats and a plastic cup ashtray) and ordered a beer (2.5 or 3 CUC). I paid for the beer and was waiting for the change. I thought I had enough money with me but it turned out I only had 10 CUC, I had miscalculated the amount of money I had left in my pockets.

As I was waiting for my change a big ass bouncer (ghame2 tab3an) came over and asked me to step outside with him, I did not know what he wanted but it was loud and I had to go outside to hear him. The manager (also a big guy) found out that I did not pay to get inside so he asked them to look for me so I would pay the 3 CUC, he thought eny zawaght. I tried to explain that it was the guy at the door's fault for not making me pay bs batkalim ma3 se3idy tab3an. I did not have money since the waiter did not give me my change back and the manager insisted that I had to pay or else I would not get back in. After some explanation he agreed that I go inside (escorted by the bouncer) and find the waiter who had my money in order pay the entry fee....................which is what I ended up doing successfully....I just hate these small episodes, they just fuck up your mood and are uncalled for

The show only started after 12 AM, and before that they had some music playing with video projections of the MTV music awards.....in Cuba! Tab3an Beyonce w Rihanna akalo el gaw

Most of the people in the place were locals, except for another gringo old guy. I saw him with two local girls sitting with him on the table. I was having my beer and lit a cigar, waiting for the show to start. At that point a girl came up and asked me if she could sit down, at first I could not understand what she was saying but she sat down anyway.

I could tell she was a working girl because she looked like it and was talking to the old gringo before me. There were two girls at the table next to mine and they seemed to be working girls as well (but much higher quality than mine to be honest). They were closely observing the girl that came and sat next to me. You can see one of them in this photo (not very clear):

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The girl tried to make conversation aiming to steer it to the negotiation part (acting all interested in me and shit........bs 3ala meen!). I knew that sometimes there were working girls in kind of touristic places. The girl could tell I was not interested, but she was still trying to get any kind of contribution from my side (first to help her pay the rent for her apartment which had to be paid the next day, then to pay a cab to take her home, then to buy a pack of cigarettes).

She had another girl friend (working as well but less pretty) that decided to come over and joined our table. I tried to ignore them and enjoy the show, but all of a sudden it looked like I was this dude with a COHIBA cigar, a beer and 2 working girls with him on the table clapping and enjoying a live show..................mafioso style.

I had to give the girl some money to get the pack of cigarettes so she would leave me alone, this meant one beer less for me since I only had 10 CUC (or what remained of it).

I left after a while as I was supposed to go to Vinales early next morning. Since I did not have any money left I had to walk back home, not a very easy walk...............probably the girl used my money to go back home by cab while I walked...........fucking world!!

Here is a video from the club with some people dancing:

Last day in Havana:

Beer Café

I had mentioned earlier the Beer Café in Plaza Vieja, the place where they brew their own beer. I wanted to try it out and went there on the last day. The beer was really good, they have different types (dark beer, light beer as well as beer cocktails)

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After a couple of beers I went to Plaza de Armas to try to buy some old pins from the book sellers there. As I was negotiating with the seller, someone called me, I turned around and I saw Christina (the Greek friend from our trip a few days earlier). It took me a few seconds (maybe more) to realize it was her (after the few beers I had). We had left her in Santa Clara to take a bus to Santiago and from there to the Dominican. There was a cyclone hitting Cuba and some Caribbean islands but it was only passing through the other side of the island (Santiago de Cuba). Christina’s flight got cancelled and she therefore had to change her plans and head back to Havana in order to fly to the Dominican.

It was a nice surprise, we decided to get something to eat since I had not had lunch, we went to the place I liked hanging out at, just round the corner from the Floridita. Here is Christina on her Iphone as usual:

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After lunch we went to the Floridita to check it out since it was my last day (she had been there before). I had always wanted to visit the Floritida even before going to Cuba. I think we even met the franchise owner of the Floridita in England in Sharm El Sheikh with my friend Tarek Bedir. It was one of the first places I looked for when I got to Cuba. I had imagined it completely different; I thought it would be like an open air café/bar with a small restaurant inside overlooking the sea. It was more of a fancy bar and it looked like the other bars you can find anywhere. I had wanted to go there but for some reason I always went to other places, it was my last day however and I intended on going.

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Known as the home of the daiquiri and Hemmingway’s place this is the most famous place in Cuba. The most famous drink is Papa Hemmingway which is a daiquiri cocktail dedicated to him. They have a statue of Hemmingway sitting at his favorite seat at the bar.

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Like all other places in Havana there was live music playing. One of the guests even joined the band, he seemed Cuban (the one in the red hat).

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The Floridita is probably the most expensive place in Havana; it charges 6 CUC per cocktail. Most people just go for a drink and to see the place; almost no one stays there for drinking.

Christina’s detour meant that she had no money left after paying the hotel and cab to the airport. None of the machines would give her any money. So we agreed that she would pay by credit card for the both of us and I would pay her in cash. She also mentioned that she saw my blog (apparently someone posted it on my FB page ;) ), which now means I need to be more careful about what I write since I had promised her I would be nice.

We had a couple of drinks, she had to leave at 7 PM to see someone or something like that. Turns out that she got herself a Cuban boyfriend and could not wait to see him, she had been away from Havana for some time (she should have actually been out of the country a few days earlier). He was not just a normal Cuban dude, he was a wrestler in the national team (how very Roman of her!). They met on her flight to Havana. The moment she mentioned she had a Cuban boyfriend a few things made sense............mainly the loves bites on her arms (which I could not tell if they were bruises or hickies), there was a smaller one I think on her neck but you could not tell. I got her permission to write about her Cuban boyfriend but not more than that; I took my chances since she is a really nice person. She even mentioned she would send me photos of her Cuban wrestler boyfriend so that when people read the blog they would see how good looking he is.

After the Floridita we parted ways……

In Plaza Vieja there is a place called the Chocolate Museum, it was a place where you could buy chocolate and they had a cafe as well. They make the chocolate inside the place. I had a hot chocolate, I needed one after drinking for most of the day. The hot chocolate had some kind of pepper in it.......did not really like it but it was something new

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I went back to Casa Margarita to pack, my flight was very early and I had to leave at 5 AM (for some reason I keep reserving very early flights). Margarita was having a party at the Casa, she had prepared some food and drinks since some of the guests in the other rooms were leaving as well. They guests were from Spain and Italy (the Italian guy was just in Marsa Alam).

They were listening to all the old music our parents listen to (Olivia Newton John, ABBA, etc.). I was forced to join the party even though I preferred to pack and have an early night. The AC wasn’t working, which made it impossible to stay in the room and pack..........joining the party in the garden was the only tolerable option. The houses in Havana have both electric currents (110v and 220v), the bigger machines like the ACs worked on 220v and the light and smaller devices used 110v. The AC was not working since the220v current was cut, but we still had music and lights.

I had a couple of tasty sandwiches, I hope they were not pork/ham.........I did not want to be impolite, I had to take them. As soon as the AC was back, I went back to the room, showered and packed. I organized a taxi to pick me up at 5 AM and that was the end of my stay in Havana.

This has nothing to do with this blog post, I just found the declaration form you need to fill when entering Cuba (it asks you if you have porn with you)!

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Posted by seifaboualy 17:21 Archived in Cuba Comments (0)

Viñales

I booked a day trip to Viñales, it is known for its natural beauty and scenery. Pinar del Rio is the main tobacco growing area in Cuba but we could not see the fields since it was not the season for growing tobacco.

The first stop was a small rum factory, it was not a big brand like Havana Club but they used a variety of a Guava to make the rum . The factory aslo belonged to the country, it was a small factory. It produced 2 types of rum, they gave us small cups (Havana Club cups) to taste.......one is more sweet and I think the other was dry. The visit to Havana Club in Havana was more like a museum tour and not a factory tour.

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They then took us through town; they have a very nice street there that has some colorful houses.

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I had been trying to buy an olive green shirt, just like the ones the guerrilla fighters used during the revolution but could not find any in Havana (they only sold the caps but they never sold the olive green army looking shirts). I was told by the guide from the other tour that I might be able to find something similar in Vinales, it would not be a military shirt but an olive green peasant shirt. That was fine since most of the fighters were peasants, so the shirt would be more or less what I wanted. I tried a couple of shops in Vinales but could not find anything, not even in the second hand clothes shops.

They then took us to a grotto where we walked for a bit and then took a boat ride inside.......the usual grotto stuff. The grotto had some natural rock formations that looked like a skull and a bottle of wine, I did not manage to take photos of them.......my camera was not ready.

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Check out this cool plant that was outside the grotto:

Afterwards we had some lunch and they only served pork for the day. The tour guide had asked us earlier if any of us did not eat pork, they would give us scrambled eggs instead........I went for the eggs. There was a huge mountain wall that was painted (prehistoric life) in order to act as a tourist attraction (based on an order from Fidel)

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Next stop was to see a guy rolling cigars and selling them. It was more of a tourist thing, I had already seen the guys in the factory make cigars but this was a good opportunity to take pictures since we were not allowed to in the factory.

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Cigars are pressed for a few hours before being finally completed.

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Stored Tobacco leaves

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We then went to a high point for some views of the Vinales valley

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Posted by seifaboualy 06.09.2011 13:26 Archived in Cuba Comments (2)

Budget accommodation in Cuba

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus and Santa Clara

4 cities, 2days/1 night

The trip that was being recommended to most travellers involved 4 cities. It’s a 2 day/1 night trip that takes you to Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus and Santa Clara.

I first tried to book it with one company but the departure was not confirmed since they did not have the minimum number of people needed. I managed to find another company that had the same departure date. The pickup is usually at one of the main hotels around; mine was at the Habana Libre.

I delayed my trip for a couple of days in order to avoid being with the French girl eli laza2etly fil teatro, she had told me her departure date. Pickup time was 7 AM, and as soon as I got to the Habana Libre I saw the French girl. She was for some reason taking the same tour, even though she should have gone 2 days ago according to what she had mentioned at the teatro. After talking to her I learnt that the tour organizers forgot to pick her up and she had to wait till the next departure (mine). Knowing that she would stick to me, I limited my conversations with her..........there was no way I could have handled her for 2 full days. Luckily there were some other people on the tour (Italians) w laza2etlohom.

The trip was not very special, but it ticks boxes with regards to the places you need to see.

Cienfuegos was our first destination. We walked through the main street and plaza, they left us there for like an hour to wander around and take photos. It’s a nice small city but nothing special.

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The only cool thing in Cienfuegos was a house (huge house) where we went for a drink. It belonged to an Austrian guy (I think) that was living in Spain and decided to move to Cuba. The house had Islamic architecture and was really beautiful; it overlooked the bay/beach.

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We then had lunch at the yacht club, it was also a nice place.

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The food was open buffet (all throughout the trip). We had 3 Italians with us, who were always hungry. Every now and then they would yell “mangare.....pasta pasta.......Spaghetti......macaroni”, this meant they were hungry and wanted to eat. They kept going on like this for the whole two days. Luckily they formed a group with the French girl and I was not bothered by her anymore (except for brief periods).

The next stop was Trinidad, a beautiful small town with very old colonial houses. It was very calm and relaxed, there weren’t so many people there but a lot of beggars waiting for the tourists to come.........still it was a very charming place that resembled Cartagena in Colombia, it was like a small less developed Cartagena.

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In Trinidad I met a girl with us on the tour, Christina, she's Greek and as soon as she found out I was from Egypt she couldn’t stop talking about it. Egypt was her favorite country and she had been there 5 times..........(reminds me of someone I know). Christina worked for a bank in Greece and then decided to go to Haiti to take part in the relief work. She had finished her task and decided to go to Cuba for vacation before returning to Europe.

The houses in Trinidad were just beautiful, and Christina decided to check one out by acting like she needed a room to stay for the night. The lady owner of the casa particular took us inside to see the house and room. The room was really big with high ceilings, I don’t have photos but I think Christina took a few. The lady then asked if we liked the room and offered it at 25 CUC (if I remember correctly)

They took us to a place to have a local alcoholic drink which had honey in it.....the ingredients were on the wall (see below). The place had a nice vibe and there was a guy playing live music (local drums).........he was teaching one of the men on the tour

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They also took us to a pottery shop, they guy was working to give us a show and convince us to buy stuff. The pottery products were nice but not too special, there is a lot of pottery in Egypt so it was more of the same. I could not buy anything since I did not want to be carrying it with me all the way to Egypt. They had the usual products with Che Guevarra and the Cuban flag painted on them.

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Trinidad was really nice and I wanted to stay for another day but I had to stick to the tour. It wasn’t so bad because we were actually spending the night in Trinidad in a hotel booked by the tour, so I could still spend more time there. It was really hot and after the guide gave us some time to take photos of the town, we were on our way to the hotel. The sun hadn't set yet and I was really looking forward to swimming in the Caribbean since I only went to the beach once when I was in Cartagena. Havana is on the other side of the island and if you go the beaches there (Playas del Este) you swim in the ocean.

Our hotel was about 10km from Trinidad and was on the beach, it looked exactly like the 4 star hotels in Hurghada or Sharm El Sheikh (plus the view). The hotel was owned by the state and everyone working there practically worked for the government/state. It was a good hotel, I wonder how the governemnt manages to run hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, etc..........

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View from my room:

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As soon as I checked in I pulled on a swimsuit and went to the beach. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the pool and no one was at the beach. I preferred the beach, it was warm but it was like a swamp. There were so many insects flying around and a huge amount of crabs as well. The sand was very nasty it was all muddy and was covered with grass. I tried to go deeper since the water was very shallow and to get away from the nasty sand and grass, but there was no end. I walked like half a km into the water and it was still very shallow, it was more of a swamp than a beach……..nothing like the Caribbean islands around Cartagena. The beach was only good for photos, but not for swimming.

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There were too many crabs and insects so I went back to try the pool but it was full and did not look very clean. Also Christina made sure to point out all the small things that would get you disgusted at the pool........so I did not end up getting in.

Crabs in the garden:

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They gave us the all-inclusive bracelets to enjoy the restaurant and bars around. The service is usually not that good in these all inclusive deals and this time it was no different. We had to eat at the open buffet. The bars at the hotel did not serve Mojitos or any cocktails which is kind of weird considering we were in Cuba. They only offered a green drink that Christina mentioned was nasty so I just had a couple of beers in small plastic cups.

We met the group for dinner at the hotel restaurant and the tour guide had mentioned earlier that they would take us to Trinidad for the night if everyone on the tour decided to go. The rule was we either we all go or we all stay.................like we were some kids. The tour guide did not even appear for dinner and we never saw her until the next day. We could have gone to Trinidad by Taxi but it was already late and I decided to stay in the hotel.

On the second day of the tour they took us to Sancti Spitiritus, which as another good looking small town with nothing much to do. They gave us the usual free time to walk around and take some photos.

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I had missed breakfast at the hotel so I just went to a coffee place (Christina wanted coffee) and had 2 egg sandwiches. They did not have coffee despite it being a coffee place (we had to drink juice).

Cuba has 2 currencies, the Convertible Pesos (CUC, pegged to the USD) and the National Pesos. One CUC is about 25 national pesos. Both currencies are in use, but all around Havana you mainly use CUCs especially in the touristic areas. The locals get their salaries in National Pesos and the basic items (bread, etc) can be bought using them. There are a lot of places that use the national pesos, but they are places you would usually not go to (they are not as nice looking or are out of the way). I had to pay for the breakfast in pesos, but when you change money you only get CUCs and I never had any pesos on me. I just made the calculation and paid the guy 1 CUC, which was more than our bill. We had 2 juices and I had 2 egg sandwiches, and we paid 1 USD! This was my second encounter with national pesos. I was once walking in Havana next to a bakery and decided to buy bread (the smell was really good). I paid 0.5 CUC (0.5 USD) and got myself something like 14 huge loafs of bread............I had to look for someone (a beggar) to give it to since I was struggling walking in the middle of Havana carrying bread

I got some change in CUC once, but never used them afterwards. It was at a pizza place..........I had the worst pizza ever (bil lahma el mafrooma!!)

Our last destination was Santa Clara, a very important city in the history of the revolution and where a major battle against Batista was won allowing the revolution to triumph. If you watch the movie “Che” you will see the battle of Santa Clara. They still had the train that was attacked by Che Guevara (turned into a museum).

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In Santa Clara there is the Che Guevara memorial, where his remains and those of other revolutionaries are kept. Che’s remains were found in Bolivia in 1997 and were brought all the way to Santa Clara.

You cannot take photos within the memorial; it’s a shame because there are a lot of interesting belongings kept there. There was a small notebook that had basic Spanish words and phrases and their translation in an African language; probably used by Che when he was in Africa. You can also see the fake Uruguayan passport that he used to enter Bolivia; as well as other medical equipment that he used (he was originally a field doctor). There were a couple of rifles on display as well. In front of the memorial there is a huge Che statue.

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After the memorial we stopped for lunch at a weekend resort kind of place (also owned by the government), where some Cubans were enjoying the pool. The place looked good.

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We then went went on our way back to Havana. Christina was flying to the Dominican on her way back to Europe. She had booked her flight from Santiago de Cuba, which is on the other side of the island, we dropped her at the bus station so she could go to Santiago.........we then went to Havana.

Posted by seifaboualy 06.09.2011 11:50 Archived in Cuba Comments (0)

Vedado

I was staying in Vedado at Casa Margarita but never checked out the neighborhood except for the first night when I went to the Jazz joint. I decided to dedicate one morning just to walk around.

Vedado looks like an American suburb, with wide streets and 1-2 story houses with backyards. The area also has some typical American high rises, especially closer to the Malecon (kornish)

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Plaza de la revolucion is the main square with a huge staue of Marti, father of the fight for Cuban independence from Spain and a role model to Fidel and co. There is a lot of propaganda graffiti around the plaza, just as there is all over the city.

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There is also the Casa Marti in Vedado:

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Marti has a statue on the Malecon as well:

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Avenida del los presidents (Calle G) is a main street in Vedado; the street has many statues of influential South American presidents:

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Some of the buildings on Calle G:

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Vedado has a couple of historic hotels, the Habana Libre is the most famous in all of Havana. It was nationalized during the revolution and Fidel Castro was running the country from one of the suites during the first few weeks after the revolution succeeded:

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The other famous hotel is the Hotel Nacional:

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Havana University is also in Vedado, and they have a famous library there.

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Close to the university I was fooled by a dude and a girl, the guy said he was a student in the medical school. He mentioned that there were some Arab and Egyptian students but they were separated. He was acting all friendly and nice and offered to show me the club where the song “guajira guantanamera” was written and first performed. I had already known about the place but not the location, it was first performed at the 3 muskateers.

After the guy showed me the place he then asked me for money to buy an internet card. I felt obliged (for some reason) to give him money, but I gave him less than what he asked for, I felt bad that a medical student would ask for money, he must have really needed it, and the guy also did not look like the other hustlers all around town.

A tour guide later explained that when the Americans first arrived they called the Cuban peasants "War Heroes" for their brave fight for independence, the locals pronounced it as "guajira". The song is about a local female peasant from Guantanamo.

Mella monument is just in front of the university, he was a student leader and started the first communist party in Cuba……later assassinated by Machado (the dictator overthrown by Batista)

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Yara Cine, one of the most famous cinemas in Havana. The ticket I had from the other theatre said Yara Cine.

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Lopez Serano building is the like a mini Empire state building and where Eduardo Chibas lived (one of the most respected politicians and leader of the Orthodox political party in which Fidel was a member during his youth). Chibas hosted a weekly radio show and shot himself during one of his shows (it was his last show).

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Focus building is a huge concrete building that was at one point the second biggest concrete building in the world:

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Casa de las Americas is a cultural house that gives awards and promotes culture and literature; it was directed by Haydee Santamria (one of the women involved in the Cuban revolution and a national hero).

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Calixto Garcia is a historic figure, he fought for Cuban independence. He has his own impressive monument on the Malecon in Vedado:

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(some history about him: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calixto_Garc%C3%ADa)

The US interests office is on the Malecon in Vedado:

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Posted by seifaboualy 05.09.2011 23:07 Archived in Cuba Comments (2)

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